Count : count is a num indicating mess
per unit length or length per unit mess.
Dyes : dyes are generally colored organic colored
compound , which are responsible for the
coloration for dyed and printed textile material.
Reactive : a dye ander suitable
condition is capable of reactive
chemically with substrate to from a
covalent dye substrate linkage.
Dispers : a class of water in soluble or
slightly soluble dyes . originally introduced for dyeing cellulose acetate , usually applied for fine aquase
suspension.
Acid : an anonic dye having substantivity for fibers
. it contain cataionic group usually in acidic or neutral aquas dye bath
solution . acid dyes are often used in inorganic or organic acid dyeing
solution.
Basic : a class of positive ionic carrying dye knowen of there brilliant hue.
Basic dyes comosed of large molecule water soluble salt that have direct
affinity for wool and silk And can be applied to cotton with a mordant.
Direct : a class of direct dye stuff
that are applied directly to the substrate in a natural and alkaline bath . it
produced a full shade of cotton linen
without mordanting and can also
be applied to rayon silk and wool. Direct
dyes bright gives bright
shade but exibit poor wash fastness.
Azo : azo dye are characterized by the presence of an azo group (-N=N-) as the
chromophore . azo dye are found in
manyof the synthetic dye classes
Anionic : a dye diacessociate in
aqueous dye bath negatively charged colored ion
Cationic : a dye that di associate in
a acidified aquase solution to give a positively charged colored ion
Ingrain : a colorant whice is formed in
situ , in the substrate by the development
and coupling of one more intermediate compound . the turm wash originally
used for colorant obtained from oxidationbase and by azoic techniques but is
now reserved for others types of colorant tormed is situ.
Metal complex : a dye having co ordinate metal atom in its molecule . unless the turm
metal complex dye used in direct association with aparticular application class
of dye . metal complex dispers dye or m c
reactive dye , it used in in exact and indivisible.
Mordant : a substant usually a metallic
compound , applied to substance
to from with a dye a complex , which is
retained by the substratemore firmly then the dye it self.
Solvent whice is soluble in organic solvent, but not in water , its widely
used in liquer , inks , waxes , plastics , soap , cosmatics , fuels and colored
smook.
Salpher : the dye containing salpher
both as a integral part of the chromophore and in attached polly sulphide chain
. normally applied in the alkali soluble reduced from a sodium
sulphide solution and subs sequentlly
oxidized to the in soluble from .
Vat : a water in soluble dye usually
contanning keto group, which normally
applied to the fiber from an alkaline aquous solution of the enol from which is
subsequently oxidized in the fiber to the in soluble from.
Liquer ratio : in weight processing the ratio of the weight of
liquids used to the weight of goods
treateds.
Dye liquer : the liquids that contain the dye and regents
necessary for dyeing.
Color : color is the result of an interaction between
a chromospheres group of color bearing group light .
Color
is general name of all sensation arising from the ratina of the eye , % its
attached to nervours mechanism. This
activity being nearly every case in normal indivisual in specific respons to
radiant energy of certain wave length & intensity
Light : the aspect of radiant energy which human
observed is a were through , visual sensation arising from stimulation of the
ratina by radiant energy .
Light
is the electro megnatic radiation the aspect of radiant energy of which a human observer is awere through visual
sension of arising from the stimulation of the ratina of the eye.
Metamerism : apair of sample is said to be metameric if
there color match under one light source
and not match under different light source , this phenomena is called .
When
light source is different , view of
color substance will be different , called metamerism.
Chroma :
Chroma
is the intensity or saturation level a
particular hue, which measure the saturation of color is expressed by the distance from value axist. The vividness or dull ness
of a color a described by its chroma .
in other words how close the color is to
either grey or pure hue.
PH : it
is the indicator for measuring the
straight of acid and alkali rangr
1-7
acid , 7-14 alkali , just 7 neutral
soap
: Soap is made on commercial scale by boiling
natural oil or fats with aquas solution of sodium or potassium hydroxide
ex -- C17
H35OOC- CH2
I
“ - CH +3NaOH
I
C17 H35OOC- CH2
I
C17 H35OOCNa – CH2OH
I
CHOH
I
CH2OH (glycerol)
So soap is a metallic salt of lighter fatty acid
Flow diagram
of soap manufacturing.
Selected natural fats (boiled with NaOH OR KOH
)
\/
Syrup sol
with glycerol ( added NaCl)
\/
Sopa ppT formet added boiling water +NaCl
\/
Found pure soap
Soap example – C17H35COONa
PICTURE
Pigment : an insoluble
finally divide substant such as a titanium dia oxide , used
to delusture or color fiber ,
yarn or feb.
Pigment are insoluble coloring matters mostelly of
mineral origin.
Pigment
comes from latin words which means paint . pigment are insoluble coloring
matters mostly of mineral origin
Ø Pigment are colored or
colorless substance
Ø Pigment are inert &
insoluble in aquas media
Ø The turms colorants cover
both dye and pigment
Ø Pigment have no affinity
from the fiber
Ø But pigment can use to all
textile fibers with the help of binder
Ø Pigment are fixed on to the
textile with binding agent in the pattern required
Ø Pigment provide greater
degree of certainty in color matching
Ø Pigment provide complex
rang of color
Ø Pigment does not required
various after treatment like dyed textile, this makes high production of prints.
Ø The use of pigment is making
decorated textile is on the rise
Ø Colorant = which gives color
to other substance
What do u under stand by pigment binder ?
Binder is the most important ingredient in a pigment
printing pest
Ø Binder forms a film on the
surface of the febrick
Ø Binder use use in
pigment printin is the mostly co polymer
Pic
11
Fig:
a polymer of 3 mole butyl acrylate & 1 mole acrylonitrile
1. the firstness of pigment
color depend up on the binder
2. the binder film should be
colorless,, smooth , soft & should be resistant to mechanical streeses.
Shade : a common turm loosely used to
described broughtlly particular color or
depth
Yarn : it is an assemblage of fiber twisted and laid together to from a continious stand suitable for used
weaving & knitting
yarn count measuring system :
direct sys -- tex , dener
in direct system—English , metric
warp yarn : the length wise set of yarn ( wide wise )
types of fiber :
1. normal fiber
2. thin fiber
3. dead fiber
main classification of fiber :
1. natural fiber
2. animal fiber
3. vegetable fiber
4. mineral fiber
5. MMF fiber
6. synthetic polymer
7. natural polymer
Finishing : the making of a marketable and customer useable textile is not completed after febric production dyeing or printing operation . feb usually still
need to under go and additional
processing knowing as a finishimg . which is the final processing befre is the feb is cut in apperale or made into
any
articales of textile finishing is what
improved attractiveness and make fab suitable for there is tended end use.
knitting : it is the process producing feb by transforming continious yarn into
inter looking loops . each raw of loop having from the one immediately preceiding it.
Weaving : it is the process of interlacing two sets of yarn mainly warp &
weft , at right angle to make a feb according to design.
Speaking : in this foreign matter are removed .
Burling : speanning and weaving
defect are removed
Mending : hand reweaving process, feb defect are rectified
Brushing : (shearing & cropping ) protruding yarn are removed from the body
of febric. it is a pretreatment of sinzing & desighn.
Singing : the object of singing is to
remove projecting fiber & give a feb with a smooth surface . there are singing m/c of verity of design and sophistification such as a
1. plate sizing m/c
2. roller “ “
3. flame or
gas “ “
Desizing : removal of sizing
material these increasing the absorbency
of febric.
Classifiation
of desizing
1. oxidative method à
a)clorine treatment
b)bromite treatment
c)chlorite treatment
2.hydrolytic method à
a) rot step
b)acid step
c) enzymetic step
scouring : to make the feb more
absorbent , natural impurities
(wax
, regin , oil ) are removed by boiling
with alkali .
Scouring
is the process of removing of impurities from the fiber to produce hydrophilic
and clean feb.
Reaction..pic
7
What
change occure during scouring ?
1.Saponificable
oil & free faulty acid are converted into soap.
2.
protein and pectoses are converted into soluble salt of pectic acid.
3.protein
are degraded to simple soluble aminoacid.
4.
mineral matter are dissolved
5.residual
sizimg material break down to soluble
Object
of scouring:
1. to make feb highly
hydrophilic
2. to remove impurities as
(oil, wax, cotton ,seed etc)
3. to increase absorbancy of
febric
4. to produce clean materiale
ready to next process
bleaching : the natural color of the feb is removed by using sodium
hypocloride (NaOCl) , hydrogrn per oxide (H2O2) , sodium chloride (NaClO2).
It
is the distruction of natural coloring matters to produced a white feb 7 must
be accomplished with a minimum damage to the cotton being bleached.
Object : 1. to impart a pure permanent & basic
white effect to the fiber or febrics.
2.to increase absorbancy of febric
3.to make ready for further process
Damage in Bleaching :
Bleaching is done in alkaline condition & high
tempture (110’c) . in alkaline condition & high temp cellulose may easily
oxidized into a varity of product known as oxi-cellulose
Attact point -1
If the COOH group is formed then the behavior of
cotton will be changed. So then will be problem in dyeing, printing, subsequent
process
PIC 8
Attact point -2
Here cellulose chain does not damage to stage –02
then the structure of cellulose fully damage.
Pic 9
Attavt point -3
When the the outer – CH2OH group oxidized then
change does not effect on strength of
the feb but change occure in the
properties of the cotton due to acidic group in structure.
Pic -10
Write
down the effectof pH during dydro chloride bleaching or why ph maint 9.2-11
1. When pH 2-4
produce more clorine whice toxic & corrosive
2. pH 4 more stable HOCl does
not divided into H+ & OCl- ion
3. pH 7 natural decomposition
of NaOCl is very high so it break cellulose
4. pH 7-8 quick bleaching trends to degradation of cotton febric
5. pH 9.2-11 febric become natural and more stable
6. if pH 11-13 it is the
perfect range but it required more time if pH 11 , bleaching needs 1hr 30 min , if pH 13 bleaching needs 40 hr
Fault of bleaching :
1. harsh feeling
2. chloramine reaction
3. uneven bleaching
4. improper bleaching
5. alkalinity may remain
6. residual peroxide
7. excess weight loss
8. iron stain
few
oxidizing agent
1. sodiam hypo chloride Na(OCl)
2. calcium “
“ Ca(OCl)2
3. H2O2
4. Potassium permenganet
5. K2Cr2O7
6. O3
7. Bleaching power Ca(OCl)Cl
Mercerization : optional
process done to improve the strength & brightness of feb.
Acid :
1. to maintain pH blow 7 in the
bath .
2. to neutralized the surface of textile material.
acid
m
I I I
CH3COOH H2SO4
H2SO4
Alkali :
To
maintain PH above 7 in the bath
To
neutralized the surface of textile
material
acid
s m w
NaOH Na2CO3
NaHCO3
Salt : to speed up or slow down dye fiber interaction
When
speed up roll is occurred called accelerating agent Ex – reactive (-) fiber ( -)
pH above 7 dye and cellulose.
for slow dawn the roll salt is called
retarding agent pH below 7 dye ( - ) fiber (+)
Ex – acid dye on wool.
Acid donor : a compound that break dawn to provide acid in
the bath . Ex (nh4)2SO4.
To
start dyeig at neutral or slightly in acidic medium
Later
strong acidic during on printing
Buffer : a compound that resist
change in pH when medium amount
of acid or alkali are added to a
solution of it. Buffer helps to keep the pH of dye bath from changing
significantly as the process progresses.
Ex
– CH3COONa (sodium acetate)
Enzyme : 1. protein base substant
3. it is extensively used in
textile wet processing for the perpose of desizing & softening .
4. enzyme is used in
knitting feb
5. by enzyme wet loos is happen
6. enzyme can make soluble the
sizing chemical is H2O .
7. it has good water solubility
& make as specific tamp range concentration & Ph condition.
Basic
requirenment of dyeing m/c:
ü It should provide sufficient
movement of the liquer to penetrate
uniformly into every part of the goods.
ü The movement must not
be so speedy, that it will damage fiber
ü The m/c must be made of a
metal which will withstand prolonged boiling with acid or alkaline sol.
ü The beating arrangement must be such that a
comparatively uniform temp will be maintained through out liquer
ü All moving part and electric
motor should protected , againsted the corrosive of steam & acidic
atmosphere condition
Different between dye and pigment.
Dye
1.
Used in the inner surface of fiber
2. printing + dyeing
3. most of the
are organic compound
4. costly
5. water
solubility
pigment
1. used in the
outer surface of fiber
2. only printing
3. most of the
dye are inorganic
4. cheep
5. no water
solubility
Acid
1. organic
2. soluble in H2O
3. greater
affinity with fiber
4. higher
absorbancy
5. no need
adhesive
pigment
1. in organic in
soluble in H2O
2. no affinity
3. no absorbancy
4. adhesive muded
reactive dye
1. need washing
2. RD are not
applicable
Pigment
1. no need
washing
2. pigment are
applicable to all fiber
3.
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