Short theory

Count  : count is a num indicating mess per unit length or length per unit mess.

Dyes  :  dyes are generally colored organic colored compound , which are responsible  for the coloration for dyed and printed textile material.

Reactive  : a dye ander suitable condition  is capable of reactive chemically with substrate  to from a covalent dye substrate linkage.

Dispers  : a class of water in soluble or slightly soluble dyes . originally introduced for dyeing cellulose  acetate , usually applied for fine aquase suspension.

Acid  :  an anonic dye having substantivity for fibers . it contain cataionic group usually in acidic or neutral aquas dye bath solution . acid dyes are often used in inorganic or organic acid dyeing solution.

Basic  : a class of positive ionic  carrying dye knowen of there brilliant hue. Basic dyes comosed of large molecule water soluble salt that have direct affinity for wool and silk And can be applied to cotton with a mordant.

Direct  : a class of direct dye stuff that are applied directly to the substrate in a natural and alkaline bath . it produced a full shade of cotton linen  without mordanting and  can also be applied to rayon silk and wool. Direct  dyes bright gives bright  shade  but exibit poor wash fastness.

Azo  :  azo dye are characterized  by the presence of an azo group (-N=N-) as the chromophore . azo dye  are found in manyof the synthetic dye classes

Anionic :  a dye diacessociate in aqueous  dye bath negatively  charged colored ion

Cationic  : a dye that di associate in a acidified aquase solution to give a positively charged  colored ion

Ingrain :  a colorant whice is formed in situ , in the substrate by the development  and coupling of one more intermediate compound . the turm wash originally used for colorant obtained from oxidationbase and by azoic techniques but is now reserved for others types of colorant tormed is situ.

Metal complex : a dye having co ordinate metal atom in its molecule . unless the turm metal complex dye used in direct association with aparticular application class of dye . metal complex dispers dye or m c  reactive dye , it used in in exact and indivisible.

Mordant  :  a substant usually  a metallic  compound  , applied to substance to from with a dye  a complex , which is retained by the substratemore firmly then the dye it self.

Solvent whice is soluble in organic solvent, but not in water , its widely used in liquer , inks , waxes , plastics , soap , cosmatics , fuels and colored smook.

Salpher  : the dye containing salpher both as a integral part of the chromophore and in attached polly sulphide chain . normally applied in the alkali soluble reduced from  a sodium  sulphide solution and subs sequentlly  oxidized to the in soluble from .

Vat  : a water in soluble dye usually contanning  keto group, which normally applied to the fiber from an alkaline aquous solution of the enol from which is subsequently oxidized in the fiber to the in soluble from.

  

Liquer ratio  : in weight processing the ratio of the weight of liquids used to  the weight of goods treateds.

Dye liquer  : the liquids that contain the dye and regents necessary for dyeing.

Color  :  color is the result of an interaction between a chromospheres group of color bearing group light .

Color is general name of all sensation arising from the ratina of the eye , % its attached to nervours  mechanism. This activity being nearly every case in normal indivisual in specific respons to radiant energy of certain wave length & intensity

Light  :  the aspect of radiant energy which human observed is a were through , visual sensation arising from stimulation of the ratina by radiant energy .

Light is the  electro megnatic  radiation the aspect of radiant energy  of which a human observer is awere through visual sension of arising from the stimulation of the ratina of the eye.

Metamerism  :  apair of sample is said to be metameric if there color match under one light source  and not match under different light source , this phenomena is called .

When light source  is different , view of color substance will be different , called metamerism.

Chroma  : 

Chroma is the intensity  or saturation level a particular hue, which measure the saturation of color is expressed  by the distance  from value axist. The vividness or dull ness of a color a described by its  chroma . in other words how close the color is to  either grey or pure hue.

PH  :  it is the indicator  for measuring the straight  of acid and alkali rangr

1-7 acid  , 7-14 alkali ,  just 7 neutral

soap  :  Soap is made on commercial scale by boiling natural oil or fats with aquas solution of sodium or potassium hydroxide 

ex --    C17 H35OOC- CH2

                                        I

                   “              - CH +3NaOH

                                       I

             C17 H35OOC- CH2

                                       I

             C17 H35OOCNa – CH2OH

                                               I

                                             CHOH

                                               I

                                             CH2OH  (glycerol)

So soap is a metallic salt of lighter fatty acid

Flow  diagram of soap manufacturing.

Selected natural fats  (boiled with NaOH  OR KOH  )

                 \/

Syrup sol  with glycerol  ( added NaCl)

                \/

Sopa ppT formet added boiling water  +NaCl

                \/

Found pure soap

Soap example – C17H35COONa

                 PICTURE

Pigment  :  an insoluble  finally divide substant such as a           titanium dia oxide  , used  to delusture or color  fiber , yarn or feb.

Pigment are insoluble coloring matters mostelly of mineral origin.

Pigment comes from latin words which means paint . pigment are insoluble coloring matters mostly of mineral origin

Ø Pigment are colored or colorless substance

Ø Pigment are inert & insoluble in aquas media

Ø The turms colorants cover both dye and pigment

Ø Pigment have no affinity from the fiber

Ø But pigment can use to all textile fibers with the help of binder

Ø Pigment are fixed on to the textile with binding agent in the pattern required

Ø Pigment provide greater degree of certainty in color matching

Ø Pigment provide complex rang  of color

Ø Pigment does not required various after treatment like dyed textile, this makes high production of prints.

Ø The use of pigment is making decorated textile is on the rise

Ø Colorant = which gives color to other substance

What do u under stand by pigment binder  ?

Binder is the most important ingredient in a pigment printing pest

Ø Binder forms a film on the surface of the febrick

Ø Binder use use in pigment  printin is the mostly co polymer

Pic 11

Fig: a polymer of 3 mole butyl acrylate & 1 mole acrylonitrile

1.     the firstness  of pigment  color depend up on the binder

2.     the binder film should be colorless,, smooth , soft & should be resistant to mechanical streeses.

Shade  :    a common turm loosely used to described  broughtlly particular color or depth

Yarn  : it is an assemblage  of fiber twisted and laid together  to from a continious stand suitable for used weaving & knitting

yarn count measuring system  :      direct sys --  tex , dener

                                                              in direct system—English , metric

warp yarn : the length wise set of yarn ( wide wise )

types of fiber :

1.     normal fiber

2.     thin fiber

3.     dead fiber

main classification of fiber :

1.     natural fiber

2.     animal  fiber

3.     vegetable fiber

4.     mineral fiber

5.     MMF fiber

6.     synthetic polymer

7.     natural polymer

Finishing  : the making of  a marketable and customer useable  textile is not completed   after febric production dyeing  or printing operation . feb usually still need to under go  and additional processing knowing as a finishimg . which is the final processing  befre is the feb is cut in apperale or made into

any articales of  textile finishing is what improved attractiveness and make fab suitable for there is tended end use.

knitting : it is the process producing feb by transforming continious yarn into inter looking loops . each raw of loop having from the one  immediately preceiding it.

Weaving : it is the process of interlacing two sets of yarn mainly warp & weft  , at right  angle to make a feb  according to design.

Speaking : in this foreign matter are removed .

Burling :  speanning and weaving defect  are removed

Mending : hand reweaving process, feb defect are rectified

Brushing : (shearing & cropping ) protruding yarn are removed from the body of febric. it is a pretreatment of sinzing & desighn.

Singing :  the object of singing is to remove projecting fiber & give a feb with a smooth surface . there  are singing m/c of verity of design and  sophistification such as a

1.     plate sizing m/c

2.     roller  “ “

3.     flame  or  gas  “  “

Desizing :  removal of sizing material  these increasing the absorbency of febric.

Classifiation of desizing

1.     oxidative method  à

a)clorine treatment

b)bromite treatment

c)chlorite treatment

2.hydrolytic method à

a) rot step

b)acid step

c) enzymetic step

scouring  : to make the feb more absorbent , natural impurities

(wax , regin , oil ) are removed by  boiling with alkali .

Scouring is the process of removing of impurities from the fiber to produce hydrophilic and clean feb.

Reaction..pic 7

What change occure during scouring ?

1.Saponificable oil & free faulty acid are converted into soap.

2. protein and pectoses are converted into soluble salt of pectic acid.

3.protein are degraded to simple soluble aminoacid.

4. mineral matter are dissolved

5.residual sizimg material break down to soluble

Object of scouring:

1.     to make feb highly hydrophilic

2.     to remove impurities as (oil, wax, cotton ,seed etc)

3.     to increase absorbancy of febric

4.     to produce clean materiale ready to next process

bleaching  : the natural color  of the feb is removed by using sodium hypocloride (NaOCl) , hydrogrn per oxide (H2O2) , sodium chloride (NaClO2).

It is the distruction of natural coloring matters to produced a white feb 7 must be accomplished with a minimum damage to the cotton being bleached.

Object  : 1. to impart a pure permanent & basic white effect to the fiber or febrics.

2.to increase absorbancy of febric

3.to make ready for further process

Damage in Bleaching :

Bleaching is done in alkaline condition & high tempture (110’c) . in alkaline condition & high temp cellulose may easily oxidized into a varity of product known as oxi-cellulose

Attact point -1

If the COOH group is formed then the behavior of cotton will be changed. So then will be problem in dyeing, printing, subsequent process

PIC  8

Attact point -2

Here cellulose chain does not damage to stage –02 then the structure of cellulose fully damage.

Pic 9

Attavt point -3

When the the outer – CH2OH group oxidized then change does not effect  on strength of the feb but change  occure in the properties of the cotton due to acidic group in structure.

Pic -10

Write down the effectof pH during dydro chloride bleaching or why ph maint 9.2-11

1.     When  pH 2-4  produce more clorine whice toxic & corrosive

2.     pH 4 more stable HOCl does not divided into H+  & OCl- ion

3.     pH 7 natural decomposition of NaOCl is very high so it break  cellulose

4.     pH  7-8 quick bleaching trends  to degradation of cotton febric

5.     pH  9.2-11 febric become natural and more stable

6.     if pH 11-13 it is the perfect range but it required more time if pH 11 , bleaching needs  1hr 30 min , if pH 13  bleaching needs 40 hr

Fault of bleaching :

1.     harsh feeling

2.     chloramine reaction

3.     uneven bleaching

4.     improper bleaching

5.     alkalinity may remain

6.     residual peroxide

7.     excess weight loss

8.     iron stain

few oxidizing agent

1.     sodiam hypo chloride Na(OCl)

2.     calcium     “       “        Ca(OCl)2

3.     H2O2

4.     Potassium permenganet

5.     K2Cr2O7

6.     O3

7.     Bleaching power Ca(OCl)Cl

Mercerization   :  optional  process done to improve the strength & brightness of feb.

Acid  : 

1.     to maintain pH blow 7 in the bath .

2.     to neutralized  the surface of textile material.

                    acid

                      m

     I                     I             I

CH3COOH   H2SO4   H2SO4

Alkali  :

To maintain PH above  7 in the bath

To neutralized  the surface of textile material

                                    acid

  

                       s              m             w

                    NaOH   Na2CO3  NaHCO3

Salt  :  to speed up or slow down dye fiber  interaction

When speed up roll is occurred called accelerating agent   Ex – reactive (-)  fiber ( -)  pH above 7  dye and cellulose.

 for slow dawn the roll salt is called retarding agent  pH below 7 dye ( -  ) fiber (+)    Ex – acid dye on wool.

Acid donor  :  a compound that break dawn to provide acid in the bath . Ex (nh4)2SO4.

To start dyeig at neutral or slightly in acidic medium

Later strong acidic during on printing

Buffer  :  a compound that  resist  change in pH  when medium amount of acid  or alkali are added to a solution of it. Buffer helps to keep the pH of dye bath from changing significantly as the process progresses.

Ex – CH3COONa (sodium acetate)

Enzyme :  1. protein base substant

3.     it is extensively used in textile wet processing for the perpose of desizing  & softening .

4.     enzyme is used in knitting  feb

5.     by enzyme wet loos is happen

6.     enzyme can make soluble the sizing  chemical is H2O .

7.     it has good water solubility & make as specific tamp range concentration & Ph  condition.

Basic requirenment of dyeing m/c:

ü It should provide sufficient movement of the liquer to penetrate  uniformly into every part of the goods.

ü The movement must not be  so speedy, that it will damage fiber

ü The m/c must be made of a metal which will withstand prolonged boiling with acid or alkaline sol.

ü  The beating arrangement must be such that a comparatively uniform temp will be maintained through out liquer

ü All moving part and electric motor should protected , againsted the corrosive of steam & acidic atmosphere condition

Different between dye and pigment.

                       

                    Dye                                                           

1.     Used in the inner surface of fiber          

2.     printing  + dyeing

3.     most of the are organic compound

4.     costly

5.     water solubility

             pigment

1.     used in the outer surface of fiber

2.     only printing

3.     most of the dye are inorganic

4.     cheep

5.     no water solubility

                  Acid

1.     organic

2.     soluble in H2O

3.     greater affinity with fiber

4.     higher absorbancy

5.     no need adhesive

                   pigment

1.     in organic in soluble in H2O

2.     no affinity

3.     no absorbancy

4.     adhesive muded

            reactive dye

1.     need washing

2.     RD are not applicable

                  Pigment

1.     no need washing

2.     pigment are applicable to all fiber

3.      

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